A day at the races

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Good fortune smiled on us, keeping at bay the forecast heavy rain, while we enjoyed a weekend of classic bike racing at the third round of the 2013 CRMC (Classic Racing Motorcycle Club) series in Anglesey, north Wales. Previously I wrote about a Cotton Telstar bought new in 1963 still being raced by its original owner almost fifty years on. A Cotton Telstar and fifty years are involved here again but this time it is the realisation of a dream – a fifty year old dream to own and race aTelstar that finally came true last year. It was an inspirational tale and great to be able to capture this pair in action …. 50 year dream

The CRMC series has some fantastic racing covering a variety of motorcycles from the new (pre 1987) …. Blue and white…. to the old (post war). Red DevilThe intimate track and close quarters racing were great for experimenting with shutter speed and panning.  Shot at 1/2000 sec this rapid beast of a 950cc Guzzi (dominated by its engine!) looks static – something of a disappointing shot taken early on :( All engineSlowing things down and shooting at 1/400 sec adds speed to the image. To be honest this pair were fast and at the speed they were going I was lucky to catch them at all! SpeedSomething I’d previously learned (but that slipped my mind in the heat of the moment – doh!) was that panning, as well as giving a far better impression of speed, has the additional benefit of   allowing a lower ISO which contributes to sharper images. Something to remember next time it’s an overcast day at the races!

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Standing tall

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We have driven past this little trio numerous times in the last few years and they fascinated me from the moment I caught that first fleeting glimpse. Ever since, I have craned my neck for a longer, better view until recently when I finally I had an opportunity to make their acquaintance. PrideWhat caught my imagination was the central, perfectly formed little tree exaggerating the stunted misshapen form of its flanking compatriots.

Having formed a mental image of the photograph I wanted I was incredibly lucky that the weather cooperated by providing the pre-visualised ‘white’ sky. All I had to do was grovel about in the wet grass on a bitterly cold, windswept common followed by a walk of a mile or so with wet legs and sleet blowing in my face. Still, what better way to enjoy an English spring?!

 (All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Homing in …

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So, with my travels over for now I’m finding photographic inspiration closer to home – well, closer to pretty much everything else as well in fact! DropletsThis is one of those ‘almost – but not quite’ shots; a slightly wider depth of field would have improved things, as it would had I been more parallel to my subject. Oh well, there’s always another time – after all, outside the front door isn’t too far to go :)

Any other suggestions on how to improve this? Constructive criticism is always welcome – after all, it’s the best way to learn!

 (All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Journey’s end

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Well, it had to happen eventually – the end of our travels around Europe. Our last stop in France was Montreuil sur Mer; surrounded by massive ramparts it was once an important sea port but now lies ten miles inland. Although few people may know of the town itself it was immortalised as the setting for parts of Victor Hugo’s novel ‘Les Miserables’ after he stayed there at the ‘Relais du Roy’ in 1837. Relais du RoyThis wonderful hotel oozes with history and a crumbling charm accumulated over the years since its original construction in 1578 and, as well as several actors and musicians, it has also provided refuge for Napoleon Bonaparte and Field Marshall Sir Douglas Haig (who used it as his base towards the end of WWI). The town is a delight of crooked old buildings, cobbled streets and flower filled squares. Whilst meandering I came across this scene which just struck me as very typically French – in spite of the old crate for an iconic English beer! BrocanteShame I didn’t have my polarising filter with me :(

Somewhere along this journey (and this is about as close to the end as you can get!) I had to include a shot of my trusty steed and constant companion …. Homeward boundWe cruised under the Channel in solitary splendour with a carriage all to ourselves – such an unlikely event, it was worthy of a photo!

I hope you all, whether occasional visitors or regular followers, enjoyed ‘riding pillion’. For those of you who joined en route and would like to see more, my ‘grand tour’ started here. Thank you to all those who humoured me whilst I relived some great experiences and wonderful memories, liked what you saw and shared your own thoughts – your support has been much appreciated.

 (All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Prague V: Baby love

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Standing well clear of Prague’s traditional skyline, both in height and style, the Žižkov TV Tower is worth going out of your way to see. If not for the panoramic views from its 100m high observation room then for the Babies – yes, I really did say Babies :)  ZizkovThe space age tower was conceived as a grand vision of the future in 1978 by the Communist government but ironically was not completed until three years after the regime’s downfall. Initially unpopular among the majority of Prague residents apparently the addition of the babies helped enamour it to the population. The ‘babies’ are in fact the ‘Miminka’ sculptures by the political artist David Černý and, as well as proving to be an additional tourist attraction for this overlooked part of the city, they are also considered to have claimed the once-threatening Communist megalith for the people of Prague. UpI found the tower and the Babies fascinating; the strong lines are a photographers dream and the idea is just so bizarre – as is their construction with their ‘vacuum’ faces. This aspect still intrigues me and no doubt there are many interpretations of this, as are there for the installation itself. LeavingIt is variously claimed that the Babies represent future people with our same DNA, growth stifled in the Communist era, voices muted under the regime, how a small nation can achieve great heights …. the ideas roll on. What’s yours?!

 (All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Prague IV: Dreaming of a Jawa

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That may raise a few surprised eyebrows – but please, read on ….

Even for those with only the vaguest appreciation of things technical, the Prague Technical Museum is a ‘must see’. It’s one of those places where you could get lost for days (and frazzle your brain!) but we had to limit ourselves to a few hours – and didn’t even make it out of the Transportation Hall. This cavernous hall really is a sight to see and is literally crammed to the rafters with planes, trains and automobiles – and everything else in between; boats, bicycles, balloons, motorcycles and more. It’s impossible to reduce such a spectacle to two dimensions and there’s no point boring you with a mass of exhibit images, but there is one – my new dream car! (With a little Photoshopping to really show it off  :) ) JawaThere is something so cartoonishly stylish about this cute little car that I was smitten – there is also a certain irony in it being a Jawa ….

Based on their national success with motorcycles, Jawa launched a 745cc twin-cylinder two-stroke front wheel drive passenger car in 1934. Between the wars, one of the highest profile sports events in the country was the Czechoslovak 1000 Mile race for touring cars. Jawa entered this in 1935 with six sports specials and this diminutive little car won the 750cc class as well as the prestigious team award. I may be dreaming of a Jawa but as this is the only one in existence that’s probably as far as it gets!

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)
Many thanks to Aukerai for the flare.

Prague III: Imagine …

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Imagine a wall so thick with graffiti that you have to work hard picking through the kaleidoscopic layers to identify individual slogans and motifs. Imagine a place where it is de rigueur to take pen or paint to hand and leave your mark. So it is with the John Lennon Wall in Prague. John Lennon WallAfter his death in December 1980 Lennon became the symbol of pacifism for many, including here for the youth of Prague where western pop music was banned. At the risk of imprisonment for “subversive activities against the state” Lennon’s image was painted, along with political graffiti, on this long plain wall tucked away in a secluded corner close to the heart of the city. John LennonDespite repeated coats of whitewash fresh messages appeared within days. Cameras were installed and guards posted but still the graffiti appeared: and so the Wall became a political focus for young activists. More than a memorial, it came to represent the ideals of free speech and non-violent rebellion against the regime (who it is claimed, somewhat ironically, labelled this movement as ‘Lennonism’). Flower powerImagine something so potently rebellious being diluted to the point of triviality. Imagine such history obscured by banal frivolity. So it is with the John Lennon Wall.Yellow SubmarineWith the 1989 downfall of the regime there came an increase in tourism and the ease for anyone to add their scrawl. Although still there, the political graffiti and messages of peace are now overwhelmed by inconsequential daubs and puerile versions of “I was here’. DreamerIn contrast to the careless, casual ‘tagging’ now, imagine the courage it once took to defy the regime with this simple act of self expression. Imagine ….

 (All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Prague II: Crowd theory – my hypothesis!

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The lively notes of jazz danced across Charles Bridge virtually all day, while a little distance away, the quieter performers attracted crowds of their own. Watching the crowds was as interesting as the entertainers were … errr…. entertaining :)

First we have the wave crowd. This chap would catch someone’s eye and stop them in their tracks as they puzzled over how he could seemingly float effortlessly in mid air. Floating manOthers would stop and a crowd form. After a few minutes they would either see through the illusion or give up and walk away shaking their heads in disbelief. The crowd would disappear and he’d be alone for a minute (my chance!) before someone else would stop, the crowd would gather and so they came and went in waves.

Next were the attentive crowds. Fellow musicians would gather at this solitary strummer, following the rhythm with the tapping of their feet, an appreciative nod of the head or uttering an occasional ‘yeah man’ after a particularly clever chord sequence …. or so I gathered from the ensuing conversation! Solitary strummerThen there is the furtive crowd. Passing strategically placed artists they would secretly scan their wares determinedly avoiding any eye contact. When someone weakened and was ‘caught’ the following masses found the courage to stop and look confident in the knowledge that they were safe …. until approaching the next artist lying in wait. Portrait makerFinally we have the unseeing crowd. This is made up of those either too focussed on the next ‘must see’ attraction or in too much of a hurry to notice the ‘little things’ in the world around them. Pleeease Mum!This cherub caught my eye – and my imagination; typical of so many small children with the outside chance of a potential pet he seems to be saying ‘Please Mum. Pleeease can I keep him.”

To the ‘crowd theory’ purists, I apolgise.  To everyone else, can you forgive me for writing a post about crowds with not a crowd in sight?!

 (All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Prague I: First impressions

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This was my first visit to Prague and finding our way through the tangle of semi industrial and urban sprawl that seems to surround every European city was easier than anticipated. The historic centre is beautiful, with a fairy tale skyline and wonderful architecture, the 14th century Charles Bridge (Karlův Most) being one of the finest and most popular attractions. Charles Bridge …. and therein lay a problem – Prague was crowded – and for the photographer in me that was an issue! I used to go to great lengths to avoid people in my photographs – often not taking the shot at all because they were ‘spoiling’ my picture, until it finally dawned on me that sometimes you need them. People add context, interest, scale, life etc. but to do so they need to add to the composition and be identifiable as the human form. This was just not possible with the seething amorphous mass of tourists that flowed unchecked through the narrow streets and open squares of the old city at any time of day or night. Too many tourists During our stay we had a couple of places we wanted to visit that were far enough away from the centre to escape the bustle, and it was at one of these, atop a plateau that climbs steeply from the Vltava River, that we found a haven of tranquillity in a secluded corner of Letná Park. Prague in bloom If I want to capture any images of romantic Prague I think I’ll need a return trip in the depths of winter – any other suggestions?!

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Wood ‘n’ horse

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Please forgive the terrible pun – if you’re not groaning already you soon will be! Romania proved to be a wonderful place and, having spent longer there than anticipated, we had to rush to a rendezvous in Prague without much time to stop and see en route. ‘Rush’ is a relative term as it still took four days of great riding, avoiding the main roads, to get there. Our third night was spent at Bouzov (Czech Republic), famed for its romantically picturesque castle. Arriving there too late in the day, and with the castle gates firmly shut, I went for a general wander instead coming across this wood pile which cried out for a B&W photo. Access Required (Bouzov, Czech Republic) A circumnavigation of the castle walls finally led me back down to the main square and the town’s exhibition area. This too was closed and a tippy toe stretch over the wall was the only way to photograph the 15m high wooden Trojan horse weighing 55 tonnes and the centre piece of the war machines exhibition. Trojan Apparently it’s possible to climb the steep stairs inside up to a lookout point from the horse’s head. One for another time perhaps …..

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

The Merry Cemetery

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With a touch of irony our last stop in Romania was the cemetery at Săpânţa; but no ordinary cemetery is this. Overlooked by the church, blanketed in wooden scaffolding during our visit, it is a place not of sadness and mourning but a celebration of lives lived and, continuing the belief of the ancient Dacian culture, where death is merely the beginning of a new life for the immortal soul. Sapanta Covered in flowers and set against a backdrop of wooded hillsides Cimitirul Vesel, the Merry Cemetery, is a blaze of colour with a forest of sky blue crosses carved with portraits of the deceased, scenes of their life and amusing or satirical epitaphs. Stone cross It all began in 1935 with the work of the local folk artist, Stan Ioan Pătraş, a sculptor, painter and poet who, in wanting to create a place of celebration, ended up creating a most unusual tourist attraction and a boon to the local economy. Before his death in 1977 Pătraş also created his own grave carvings which mark the site of his burial near the front of the church. There are now more than 800 memorials and his apprentice, Dumitru Pop Tincu, maintains the old as well as producing the new. Sapanta montage The entire life of the village is preserved here and, with inscriptions written in the first person, the collective memory and the unflinching life stories told from beyond the grave, create a truly fascinating place. Unable to translate the text we explored this three dimensional picture book creating stories of our own.

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Bârsana Monastry

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Romania seems to be littered with UNESCO sites and about midway down the Iza valley, deep in the Maramures, is yet another; the church in the wonderfully tranquil Bârsana Monastery complex. If my translation is correct the sign above the monastery gate reads: “This is none other but the house of God, this is the gate of Heaven”. (Any help with translation would be much appreciated :) )Gate of heaven ….. and so it seems. A small convent created in post-Communist years this is a world within a world with an ethereal detached feel where time and ‘the self’ seem meaningless. The monastic buildings are beautifully crafted, mirroring the characteristic style of the area’s wooden churches, and the paths between lined with flowers. Sadly, our visit towards the end of a long dry summer was not best timed to see the gardens in all their beauty. Barsana Until recently, when claimed to be outdone by the church at Sapanta, the 180 feet tall church spire at Bârsana was the tallest wooden structure in Europe. What I find more impressive is that no power tools or fixings were used in its construction and the obvious skill moves this craftsmanship, in the church and other monastic buildings, far beyond mere carpentry. Steps to heaven With no windows to speak of, the church interior is quite dark and a subdued glow emanates from the gold in the otherwise predominantly rich red interior.Barsana ChurchApparently, and justifiably so, it was the quality of these paintings that earned the Church a place in the World Heritage listing.

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

The world goes by

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Maramures in the far north of the country is justifiably considered by many to be the heart and soul of rural Romania; somewhere to sit and watch the world go by. Watching the world go by The unspoilt countryside with small villages, rolling hills and meadows epitomises the rural lifestyle, a place where time has passed by unnoticed, preserving the culture and traditions of a romantic era lost through much of Europe. Hauling logs The Maramures seem to be something of a well known secret ….. a contradiction resulting in it being one of the least visited regions of Romania even though it is one of the better known. Perhaps it is this that helps it to maintain its traditional identity without becoming a tacky tourist trap. The area is heavily wooded and, with traditional wood craft forming a central part of the local culture, Maramures villages are distinguished by their unique wooden churches with tall spires and shingled roofs. Rozavlea Church This church in Rozavlea was originally built elsewhere in the late 18th century and moved to this, the site of an ancient church destroyed during the last Tartar invasion. The building resonates with the skill and love poured into the hand crafted wood, giving it a soul of its own.

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

The road less travelled

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From Bistrita we headed north towards the Rodna Mountains which boast one of the longest continuous ridges in Romania, over 50 km from east to west. Our chosen road formed part of the perimeter of the Rodna National Park and crossed this ridge at the lesser used and second highest pass, the Rotunda. In the eastern Carpathians, close to the Ukranian border and away from the main through routes and larger towns, this area is something of a quiet backwater and the 567 km² of Park wilderness is home to brown bears, lynx, grey wolves, black capercaillies and eagles – sadly we didn’t see any ….. but then in some cases perhaps it was just as well :)

As we began to climb, fir trees moved in to flank the road, their foliage darkening the slopes around us. We had already passed small groups of cattle being brought down from the high summer pasture but soon our road was submerged beneath a sea of sheep and goats, tended by shepherds and a pack of fearsome looking dogs; shadowed by a growing cloud of dust. Sea of sheep We pulled over to one side and the tide of animals flowed unchecked around us with the sound of bleating, tinkling bells and trampling of cloven feet filling the air. Getting down low for a more intimate shot one of the battle scarred dogs came in for a closer look but moved on once satisfied that I posed no threat to the flock. The Guardian A swaggering goat soon followed but the jaunty step and wicked gleam in his eye had me wondering whether being down at his level was quite such a good idea! AttitudeEventually the end was in sight with a few stragglers taking up the rear …..The Goatherd …… and finally they had passed. Sheep flow(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Open your foot – punk!

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Moving on towards northern Romania we stopped off in Bistrita, lying at the foot of the Bargau Montains which divide the regions of Transylvania and Bucovina. Arriving too late in the day my explorations were held over until the following morning, although then I was perhaps a little too early as the main pedestrian area wasn’t open for business – or coffee! A flourishing medieval trading post Bistrita met with troubled times and in the early seventeenth century its defensive walls and towers were all but destroyed, only the Coopers Tower remaining. Other than a couple of ancient and heavily restored Churches the town’s main attractions are a row of medieval merchants’ houses and a relaxed atmosphere. Not by any stretch of the imagination qualifying as an ‘attraction’, Bistrita also boasts an unusual line in graffiti that I stumbled across when cutting through an alley. Second hand beard Open your foot Punk A veritable wall of colour, bold design and some interesting one liners – “second hand beard” – “open your foot” – am I missing something or did it get lost in translation?!

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Morning glory

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We crossed the Carpathian Mountains twice in two days on the two highest passes in Romania, north to south on the Transalpina and south to north on the Transfăgărășan Highway. Sadly, for all that dramatic mountain scenery, panoramic views and fantastic twisting ribbons of tarmac I don’t have any decent photographs to show for it. Plenty of snaps and great memories but nothing to do justice to this spectacular, rugged range of high peaks. Determined to try and get at least one decent image, with the mountains in the background if nothing else, I was up before the sun again to try my luck.

The pre-dawn darkness gradually lightened to a murky yellow hue and there was not a cloud in the sky – not quite what I’d hoped for. Photography and patience go hand in hand so I hung on, besides it was a balmy morning and I had an entertaining lizard for company. As if embarrassed by its sullen start the sky began to flush a pale pink and streaks of cloud tentatively sidled across the silhouetted range towards me. Soon a fireball of sun peered over the horizon to my left, glancing across the distant peaks and the pink flush deepened with the bluing sky, a light mist forming in the foothills. Fagaras A couple of months earlier and the foreground trees would have been a blaze of lime green but it was here and now and this was as near perfect as I could wish for.

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

A new day

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Although I knew in my heart of hearts that the sun would be in the wrong position to improve upon my shot of ‘rural perfection’ of the evening before I couldn’t resist getting up at dawn just to be sure. Being reasonably confident with my thoughts I decided to take the long way round to the farmstead and crossed the road in front of our motel instead. The parched, brittle grass splintered rather than bent out of the way and the erupting dust clouds clung to my trousers. There was not a sound to be heard and the wooded slopes of the Parâng Mountains were still partially clothed in a fine morning mist. Silence (Carpathian Mountains, Romania) With not a soul in sight I was alone with the calm tranquility of a new day and spent some time simply absorbing the moment and watching the light and landscape slowly change before continuing to my spot of the previous evening. Having tarried a little too long, the soft morning light had disappeared; it was now direct, harsh and unflattering. With a little of the magic gone from the scene I confess to being a tad disappointed at being proven right!

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Rural perfection

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When we travel we generally have only a very rough idea of where we’re heading for, preferring to be flexible and take things as they happen day by day. However, one of the ‘must dos’ whilst in Romania (being motorcyclists!) was to ride the Transalpina, claimed to be one of the most spectacular routes in the Carpathian Mountains. To that end, we found a place to stay outside the small village of Tilişca, ready to ride the road the next day. A tidy motel surrounded by open fields, it was a place of convenience more than anything else, but still, I like to see what’s around so went for a wander. The shadows lengthened in the late afternoon sun and my footsteps kicked up small dust clouds; there had been no rain for three months and the ground was parched. The stand of trees lining one side of the track ended and I was presented with a scene of rural perfection; a small farmstead nestling beneath the hill shrouded slopes of the lower Parâng Mountains. My aimless wandering took on a sense of urgency as I sought for a better composition before the sun finally dipped too low taking the last of the soft light with it. Rural perfection There is a real sense of satisfaction when you come across something so unexpectedly; and that’s one of the things I love about travel – you never know what’s around the corner!

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Lost in time

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Time to move on, so we loaded up our bikes, left the cobbled streets of Sighişoara behind and headed south east to the small Saxon village of Viscri. One of the oldest and best preserved fortified churches of the area is to be found in this sleepy little village – and on the UNESCO World Heritage list. If you could close your eyes to the inevitable pylons and handful of cars it was a trip back in time to a simpler, and arguably less complicated, way of life. Pastel houses, set back from the road, formed a wide avenue and an occasional horse and cart trundled by. Ducks and geese owned this highway, heckling us as we approached, but more than happy to forgo their position and settle into the small stream trickling down the wide, grassy verge. Duck street Turning off the dirt onto cobbles we headed up to the twelfth century church and its heavy fortifications. The view from the top of the main tower across rural Transylvania was beautiful (if only the light had been better for photography :( ), a panoramic vista that stretched for miles in every direction.Across Viscri…. and the view down the inside was one to lighten your footsteps as the floor creaked, the slender hand railing swayed and holes in all four floors provided a shortcut to terra firma. Precarious After whiling away a pleasant few hours we had to leave, so we reluctantly turned our wheels to the dusty winding track that lead us past sheep and cattle milling around water troughs and out into the gently undulating countryside we’d surveyed from the tower. Viscri high steet

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

Ordinary lives

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There is something about this shot that really appeals to me – but I just can’t quite put my finger on it! Is it the colours – or the tangle of wires? That ‘lazy lunchtime’ feeling? The roof lines? That magnificent building that dominates the background? ….. or is it something else?! Going home It’s very easy when travelling, when going somewhere different, to get carried away with the newness of it all. I find it very inspiring and I love taking photos, both to share with others what I saw, but also to try and capture what the place means and feels to me. It can also be frustrating because chances are you won’t be in the right place, at the right time, with the right light but somehow you still have to make the best of it.

It’s also very easy when ‘stuck’ in your own locale to become immune to what’s around you and bored with the sameness of it all. I find myself thinking that there’s nothing to photograph, if only I could go somewhere else, somewhere interesting. Then I have to remind myself that where I live is new to someone else, interesting to someone else.

Our ordinary lives are only ordinary to us and in order to keep being inspired we need to see our lives through other peoples’ eyes – easier said than done! Maybe that’s the thing I like most about this image? For these two guys, this is an everyday scene of ordinary life – for me it’s magical …… even though I still can’t quite work out why!

(All images are copyright to Noeline Smith)

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